RV Water Heater Anode Rods

6 products

An anode rod is a sacrificial part. It is made of a metal that corrodes more readily than the tank around it, so the rod dissolves over a season or two and the steel does not. That makes it the cheapest maintenance on an RV and the easiest to forget, since nothing goes wrong until the tank itself starts leaking.

Tank material decides whether you need one. Porcelain-lined steel tanks do, and the rod threads into the drain port so pulling it drains the tank at the same time. Suburban supplies rods for its own heaters and Camco makes equivalents for both Suburban and Atwood fitments, including a version with a built-in drain.

Magnesium gives the strongest protection. Aluminum lasts longer in hard water and tends to produce less sulfur smell. Check the thread on your old rod before ordering.

Does my RV water heater need an anode rod?

It depends on the tank material. Suburban water heaters use a porcelain-lined steel tank, and that tank needs an anode rod for corrosion prevention. The rod corrodes first so the tank does not. Dometic and Atwood water heaters use an aluminum tank, do not need an anode rod, and use a plain drain plug instead. Check the data plate on your unit before ordering. If you own a Dometic, browse our Dometic 6 gallon RV water heaters for compatible replacement units.

What size anode rod fits an RV water heater?

Most Suburban RV water heaters take an anode rod with a 3/4" NPT thread and a length of about 9-1/2". The rod doubles as the tank drain plug. Before ordering, pull your existing rod and confirm the thread size and length against the listing. A rod that is too long can contact the tank wall, and a mismatched thread will not seal. For fitment help, text or call 817-984-1852 with your water heater model number.

Which is the best anode rod for an RV water heater: magnesium or aluminum?

Magnesium gives the strongest corrosion protection and matches what Suburban specifies as original equipment. It is consumed faster, especially in hard water. Aluminum lasts longer in hard or mineral-heavy water and can cut down on the sulfur or rotten-egg smell some owners notice with magnesium. If you mostly fill from municipal water, magnesium is the standard choice. If you often fill from well water or campground hard-water hookups, consider aluminum.

How often should I replace my RV water heater anode rod?

Inspect the rod at least once a year, usually when you de-winterize or winterize. Replace it when roughly 75% of the metal is gone, or when the core wire is exposed and the rod is heavily pitted. Full-timers and owners on hard water often need a new rod every season. Running the tank without a working anode rod lets the steel corrode, which shortens the life of the heater. If the tank itself is leaking, our 10 gallon RV water heaters cover common replacement sizes.

How do I replace the anode rod in my RV water heater?

Turn off the LP gas and the electric element, and let the water cool. Shut off the water supply and open the pressure relief valve to release tank pressure. Remove the old rod with a 1-1/16" socket, then flush sediment out through the opening. Wrap the new rod's threads with plumber's tape, thread it in snug, and refill the tank until water flows from the relief valve. Turn power back on only after the tank is full, because firing the electric element dry will burn it out. If the access door is damaged, see our Dometic 6 gallon water heater doors.